AI's Growing Role in the Fashion Industry
Leading brands like Diesel, Calvin Klein, and L’Oreal are increasingly embedding artificial intelligence clauses into their modeling contracts. These provisions authorize the creation of digital clones, facial modifications, and the use of model data to train neural networks. Other fashion houses such as Mango, Moncler, and Gucci are also exploring AI applications within the industry.
For example, Diesel’s casting call requested models' consent to digitally alter facial features, adjust body proportions, swap faces between models, and overlay faces onto different bodies. Diesel’s parent company, OTB, clarified that this clause was drafted specifically for a single campaign. Calvin Klein’s contract drafts grant the brand the right to use AI to learn from images of models—even when the models are unrecognizable—without extra compensation. Meanwhile, L’Oreal plans to leverage AI for retouching and cosmetic appearance changes, assuring that these adjustments will not affect the portrayal of the models themselves.
Legal Framework and Ethical Considerations
Legislation in Europe and the United States is evolving to address these emerging practices. Notably, New York State will enforce a law starting June 2025 that prohibits creating or modifying model likenesses without explicit consent. In the UK, the British Association of Modelling Agents has developed a code of conduct regarding AI use. John Horner, the association’s chair, warned:
'Without legislation in Britain and Europe, models remain vulnerable.' - John Horner
At the same time, retailers like About You are launching platforms that generate images with synthetic models, promising to reduce production costs by over 90%. Conversely, Zalando shut down both of its Berlin photo studios last year, resulting in more than 340 job cuts. London-based model Adut Akech, known for her Harper’s Bazaar cover appearances, expressed concern:
'If we don’t raise our voices now, the entire industry will be run by bots within two years.'
The integration of AI into fashion raises critical ethical questions, particularly about models’ rights and their consent regarding the use of their images. As digital models and automation gain momentum, the fashion landscape faces significant transformation, demanding swift legislative action to protect all parties involved. Balancing technological innovation with ethical standards will be essential as AI becomes increasingly embedded in the creative process.
As the fashion industry grapples with the implications of AI in modeling, the legal landscape is also evolving to address potential risks. In a related development, a proposed bill in the US aims to empower courts to prevent the release of AI models that could pose significant dangers. This highlights the urgent need for regulatory frameworks that protect individuals while navigating the complexities of AI technology.