The Origins of Reshetylivka Embroidery
An interview with master craftswoman Nadiia Vakulenko explores the history and modern evolution of Reshetylivka’s distinctive 'white-on-white' embroidery technique. This unique style traces its roots back to 1905, when a weaving cooperative with an embroidery workshop was established in Reshetylivka by landowner Olha Khrypunova. In the 1920s, the cooperative evolved into an industrial artel called 'Troianda' (Rose), later renamed in honor of Clara Zetkin. By the 1960s, the artel had expanded into a full-scale artistic crafts factory.
Located about 35 kilometers from Poltava, Reshetylivka emerged as a hub for embroidery in Ukraine. In October 2018, the All-Ukrainian Center for Embroidery and Carpet Weaving was launched on the site of the former factory, which had been abandoned since 2005. The 'white-on-white' technique was added to Ukraine’s National List of Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2017.
“Incidentally, in 2017, the 'white-on-white' embroidery technique of Reshetylivka was inscribed on Ukraine’s National List of Intangible Cultural Heritage,” noted Nadiia Vakulenko.
Modern Relevance and Growing Popularity
Reshetylivka embroidery incorporates at least seven different techniques in a single piece, making it both highly intricate and captivating. Nadiia Vakulenko arrived at the Reshetylivka Vocational Technical School in 1979, studying alongside 36 students—only five of whom were from the Poltava region. During the 1970s and 1980s, fabrics for the Reshetylivka factory were sourced from France, Italy, India, and Leningrad. Today, French mouliné thread is used, whereas in the past, the factory relied on Leningrad-made mouliné thread from the Kirov Combine.
Products featuring Reshetylivka embroidery are in demand both within Ukraine and internationally.
“Since the start of the full-scale war, we have been invited twice to Strasbourg to the Council of Europe,” Vakulenko shared.She also noted that “embroidered shirts for presidents, queens, and movie stars” have become a key part of cultural exchange. Prices for these items vary widely:
- “A men’s shirt with white-on-white embroidery costs from 15,000 hryvnias”
- “A nice blouse can cost 35,000 or even 40,000 hryvnias”
- “If the embroidery is machine-made, such a towel costs about 10,000 hryvnias, but if it’s handmade, it’s around 30,000–35,000 hryvnias”
As a result, Reshetylivka’s 'white-on-white' embroidery not only preserves long-standing traditions but also continues to evolve, reaching new audiences. This art form keeps drawing attention, showcasing the richness and versatility of Ukrainian culture and craftsmanship.
Reshetylivka embroidery stands as a vital element of Ukraine’s cultural heritage, reflecting a deep historical context and the skill of generations. Amid modern challenges like war, it has also become a symbol of resilience and national identity, attracting international interest and fostering cultural exchange. Supporting and promoting such traditional embroidery techniques could play a significant role in boosting regional tourism and economic development.