The Art of Reshetylivka Embroidery
In an interview with Glavkom, Honored Folk Art Master of Ukraine Nadiya Vakulenko discussed the art of Reshetylivka embroidery, its sacred meaning, and the use of European materials in creating modern embroidered shirts. She noted that due to a shortage of domestic fabrics, Ukrainian embroidered shirts are now made from imported materials, including high-quality French mouliné thread.
Vakulenko emphasized that embroiderers previously used Leningrad mouliné threads manufactured at the Kirov Plant, which was essentially a monopoly in the Soviet Union. 'Now we use French mouliné—it's among the best embroidery threads in the world. It's much higher quality than the Leningrad variety. French colored threads don't fade over time,' the craftswoman explained.
She also pointed out that the fabrics used are not Ukrainian-made but come from Poland, Spain, and Germany, and they are quite expensive.
Reshetylivka and Ukrainian Culture
The All-Ukrainian Center for Embroidery and Carpet Weaving, which Vakulenko directs, is located in Reshetylivka, about 35 km from Poltava. This town is renowned as the capital of white-on-white embroidery, and the Reshetylivka shirt is a vital part of Ukrainian culture.
'Every president of Ukraine owns a Reshetylivka white-on-white shirt,' Vakulenko stated.
The shirt was even worn by Nikita Khrushchev, and it has been gifted to Queen Elizabeth II of the United Kingdom and actress Sophia Loren.
Speaking about her work, Nadiya Vakulenko emphasized that embroidery carries deep meaning: 'When I create a piece, I always think about what I want to express through it. When I'm sick and supposedly have more time to sit and embroider, the work just doesn't come to me. I don't want to channel my illness or negative energy into someone's embroidered shirt. Whether it's true or not, I believe in it.' She also noted that embroidery doesn't always come easily, and it can depend on the recipient: 'I'll tell you, it also depends on who you're embroidering for. I'm convinced: if a person doesn't have kindness in their heart, they won't wear an embroidered shirt.'
Nadiya Vakulenko continues to develop Ukrainian embroidery traditions and promote them among new generations, making a significant contribution to preserving Ukraine's cultural heritage.
Vakulenko's remarks underscore the importance of preserving Ukrainian embroidery traditions amid modern challenges, such as the shortage of domestic materials. The use of imported fabrics and threads reflects Ukrainian art's adaptation to new circumstances but also highlights the need to support national production. Embroidery remains a crucial element of Ukrainian identity and culture, demanding attention and support from society.
As the tradition of Vyshyvanka Day approaches, the significance of embroidered shirts in Ukrainian culture becomes even more pronounced. This annual celebration not only showcases the artistry behind pieces like the Reshetylivka shirt but also highlights the enduring legacy of Ukrainian craftsmanship and its place in contemporary society. Understanding this context enriches the appreciation of the art form that Vakulenko so passionately defends.